Vintage jewelry hardware refers to the various types of clasps, pins, earring backs, rings, and other elements used to create jewelry. NOTE: This is the final article in my four-part series on how to identify and date vintage jewelry. As time went on, the pins became shorter. Although mostly seen on older brooches, some inexpensive brooches are made with C-clasps even today. The trombone clasp, patented in Europe in , was named after the musical instrument as it had a tube with a round top.
They were primarily used by men, though when first introduced, women used them as well when wearing collared blouses.
Trombone Clasp Jay B. Siegel / Warman's Costume Jewelry Trombone clasps, also sometimes referenced as push-pull safety clasps, were used on European jewelry beginning in the s.
It was worn similarly to a brooch, but with a clip mechanism instead of a pin stem to attach it to clothing. The underside of the clip usually contains prongs to hold it securely in place.
Dress clips were made of popular materials of the day including Bakelite like the example shown here and pot metal. Larger versions were sold singly. Smaller examples were often sold in pairs or sometimes as part of a "duette" see below.
The more petite clip duos were worn in various ways including at the bottom corners of square necklines. They can sometimes be confused with shoe clips. The first branded Duettes were designed and manufactured by Coro in in Art Deco styles. These clever mechanisms held two small dress clips in place to make a brooch or could be removed to wear clipped on to a garment either singly or in pairs.
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Coro also made Duettes with small double-pronged clips especially during the s, but there was some carryover into the s as with the Coro angel birthstone pieces like the one shown here.
Collectors have adopted the generic name "duette" when referencing this type of convertible jewelry. Fur clip is the collector's nickname for what manufacturers referred to as a pin clip when they were newly made.
Dating Brooch Fasteners - to One of the best ways to avoid reproductions and fakes is to know and understand how originals are made. Reproductions are rarely made the same as originals due to changes in materials, labor costs and modern production techniques. EASTROCK Bb Tenor Slide Trombone Brass, suitable for beginners and trombone enthusiasts, with ABS Hard Case,Gloves and Mouthpiece, " Bell(mm) by EASTROCK $ $ The trombone clasp, patented in Europe in , was named after the musical instrument as it had a tube with a round top. You would pull the top out to release the pin. These were used in the latter half of the 19th century into the s, mostly by European jewelers.
It is a double-pronged mechanism that was widely used in the late s through the s, although there was some lingering use in the s. As with dress clips, the larger versions of pin clips were usually sold singly.
Dec 31, Trombone clasps are named after the musical instrument that requires a push and pull to operate. This style of clasp uses this push pull method of closing. It was used from as early as the late s. The clasp was mainly used by European designers and can be found on more modern pins up to the mid 20th century. Trombone Clasp For Brooch. Trombone or push tube clasps consisted of a barrel shaped on one side of the clasp into which the pin was inserted. The tube moved from left to right for insertion and then slid back to hold tightly. Trombone clasps are primarily found in European jewelry and have been in use since the 's. Sep 20, The trombone clasp, patented in Europe in , was named after the musical instrument as it had a tube with a round top. You would pull the top out to release the pin. These were used in the latter half of the 19th century into the s, mostly by European jewelers.
Some smaller pairs of pin clips were also marketed, but they are not as common unless found as part of a duette. The lower ornament, which either clicks or screws into place, is detachable allowing the connecting pin to be slipped through the garment.
When fastened, the pin is invisible, so the two ornaments seem to float on the fabric.
These pins were originally used to decorate, or fasten, a dangling ruffle known as a jabot worn by men on the front of shirts and women on the front of dresses dating to the 17th century.
This pin style was worn on cloche hats, lapels, shoulders, and even handbags. They can be found made of precious metals and gemstones as well as costume jewelry examples. In the s and s, Cartier was famed for its jeweled jabots, which it called cliquet pins or brooches named for the "click" made when the detachable ornament is snapped on to the pin.
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The clasp or catch shown here is from a s pot metal brooch. Earlier variations had a lever that closed the clasp, while this style has a rollover closure.
This is one of the most common types of clasps used on costume jewelry from the late s onward, and it is still in use today. Many times it is referenced as a "modern" safety clasp. Because this finding has been in use for such a long period of time, it is paramount to look at the overall design elements and components used when dating jewelry using this type of clasp.
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Trombone clasps, also sometimes referenced as push-pull safety clasps, were used on European jewelry beginning in the s. Most are seen on French pieces or jewelry made elsewhere, like in Czechoslovakia, and imported into France.
A new clasp was introduced in , the slide clasp, which was a flat oblong shape with the patent number 3, on one side and the Haskell signature in block capitals on the other. This clasp was discontiued in the mid eighties. Modern necklaces now have toggle clasps and lobster clasps, in addition to box clasps and hooks. BARREL CLASP. Barrel clasps are sometimes called Torpedo Clasps, they are barrel shaped when screwed close FIBULA CLASPS. Found in ancient jewelry; rarely seen today. C-CLASPS This c-clasp from the early 20th century, has a safety lever SAFETY CLASPS TROMBONE CLASPS. Trombone Clasps Trombone clasps are so named after the musical instrument that needs a push and pull to operate. This type of clasp uses this push pull method of closing. It was in use from as early on as the late s. The clasp was generally used by designers in Europe and can be found on more modern pins up to the middle of 20th century.
They were widely used on pieces made through the s, and more sporadically after that time. As time went on, the pins became shorter. Although mostly seen on older brooches, some inexpensive brooches are made with C-clasps even today.
The trombone clasp, patented in Europe inwas named after the musical instrument as it had a tube with a round top. You would pull the top out to release the pin.
How to Repair a Brooch Clasp
These were used in the latter half of the 19th century into the s, mostly by European jewelers. Improvements and modifications made throughout the 20th century. It eventually evolved into the modern locking clasps in use today. Safety pin clasps were also popular and were used from the late s until the early s, and are still used on some hand made pieces today.
They are commonly found on hand made brooches from the midth century era, such as painted wooden brooches from Russia or micro mosaic brooches from Italy. The clasps used on bracelets depend on the type of bracelet.
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Wide bangles typically used secure hinges with tongue and groove type clasps also known as box claspswhile more delicate link bracelets used ring clasps. Wider link bracelets set with stones would often have fancy decorated box clasps. The lobster claw clasp in use today is a fairly new design from the late s, as is the toggle clasp.
The spring ring clasp, introduced in the early 20th century, is the most common vintage bracelet clasp.
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It has a spring inside the ring that allows it to open and snap closed. A variation of this is the sport ring clap, which works the same way, but instead of a nub, it has a ridged end used to open the ring. Foldover clasps were used on both bracelets and necklaces.
These could be either narrow or wide, depending on the width of the pieces. Pieces with stones would sometimes have foldover clasps that were decorated with matching stones.
The sister hook clasp was popular in the s and s.
It had two scissor-like hooks that opened in the middle, then overlapped each other when closed. Early designs were rectangular in shape. Monet had a patented, rounded sister clasp used in its jewelry in the s and s.
In addition, there were some specialty clasps used, such as snap clasps, unique pin clasps found on wide link and bangle bracelets, and unique hook clasps. As with bracelets, commonly used vintage necklace clasps include ring clasps, foldover clasps, and box clasps.
Often oval shaped, the long hook was inserted and locked into place. Usually, the necklace had a chain that allowed the hook to use any of the chain links, making the necklace length adjustable.
The S-hook clasp is a variation on the hook, with a rounded, S shape. Older pieces will show some darkening of the metal, looking more like brass. In the kidney wire was introduced.